Kabul from the air is, quite simply, tan-on-tan camouflage, blending in nicely with the countryside, with a series of intricate veins (mud-brick walls) that delineate each home's tract. Not even in Bel Air (Los Angeles area) have I seen such a sprawling gated community with sharp divisions among its inhabitants. Whatever you may read and hear about Afghanistan, the people... »

Prep'ing for Afghanistan feels like a deployment: anticipation and eagerness, with a dash of anxiety and fear. In Ranger days, deploying for three-week missions meant spending 24/7 with a litter of teenagers whose sole desire was to kill bad guys and zip back to see their fave stripper-girlfriend at the club. I was twice the age of my fellow Airborne... »

Some years back, when I was doing those 211 missions as a corporate mercenary, I made a small promise to myself: never go back to the Middle East or landlocked central Asia. Never say never, 'cos it always comes back around, wrapped in shiny new shoes and a sparkling dress. In three weeks I'll be in one of the most... »